How to Grow CannabisFrom Seed to Harvest
Everything you need to know to successfully grow cannabis at home. This guide covers a single indoor plant setup, perfect for beginners.
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Overview
Growing cannabis at home is a rewarding experience that gives you complete control over the quality of your product. This guide focuses on growing a single plant indoors using a grow tent—the most popular and forgiving method for beginners.
Indoor Growing
Complete control over environment. Year-round growing.
2x2 Tent Setup
Perfect for 1 plant. Fits in a closet. Discreet.
Soil Growing
Most forgiving medium. Great for beginners.
What You'll Harvest
A well-grown single plant can yield 1-4 ounces of dried cannabis, depending on strain, training techniques, and growing conditions. That's enough for most personal use needs.
Photoperiod vs Autoflower
Before buying seeds, you need to understand the two main types of cannabis: photoperiod and autoflowering. This choice affects your entire growing strategy.
Photoperiod
Traditional cannabis that flowers based on light schedule. These plants stay in vegetative growth until you change the light cycle to 12/12.
- ✓Full control over veg time and plant size
- ✓Higher yield potential (3-16+ oz per plant)
- ✓Can be cloned for free plants
- ✓Can recover from stress by extending veg
- −Longer cycle: 14-20+ weeks
- −Requires strict 12/12 darkness for flower
Autoflower
Beginner FriendlyContains ruderalis genetics that flower automatically based on age (around 3-4 weeks), regardless of light schedule.
- ✓Fast: 8-12 weeks seed to harvest
- ✓Compact size (1-4 ft) - perfect for small tents
- ✓Simpler light schedule (18/6 entire grow)
- ✓More forgiving of light schedule mistakes
- −Lower yield: 1-4 oz per plant
- −Cannot recover lost time from stress
Quick Comparison
| Aspect | Photoperiod | Autoflower |
|---|---|---|
| Total Time | 14-20+ weeks | 8-12 weeks |
| Plant Height | 3-8+ feet | 1-4 feet |
| Yield Per Plant | 3-16+ oz | 1-4 oz |
| Veg Light | 18/6 | 18/6 or 20/4 |
| Flower Light | 12/12 (required) | 18/6 or 20/4 (same) |
| Triggers Flower | Light schedule change | Age (~3-4 weeks) |
| Stress Tolerance | Can extend veg to recover | No recovery time |
| Best For | Max yield, experienced | Beginners, small spaces |
Our Recommendation for NY Home Growers
First-time growers: Start with autoflowers. They're faster (harvest in ~10 weeks), stay compact (perfect for a 2x2 tent), and you don't have to worry about strict light schedules triggering flowering.
Once you have experience: Try photoperiods for bigger yields and more control. You can veg them longer for larger plants, clone your favorites, and fine-tune every aspect of growth.
Important Note
The rest of this guide is written primarily for photoperiod plants, as they require more specific techniques. Where autoflowers differ significantly, you'll see callouts marked with⚡ Autoflowerto guide you.
Equipment Needed
Here's what you'll need to get started. We've organized it into must-haves and nice-to-haves so you can prioritize your budget.
| Item | Specification | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Must-Haves | ||
| Grow Tent | 2×2×4 ft or 2×2×5 ft | Contains light, controls environment |
| LED Light | 100-150W actual draw | Provides light for photosynthesis |
| Inline Fan + Carbon Filter | 4-inch | Ventilation and odor control |
| Fabric Pots | 1-gal (×2), 5-gal (×1) | Container for growing |
| Quality Soil | 1.5-2 cubic feet | Growing medium |
| Nutrients | 3-part system | Plant food for each stage |
| pH Meter | Digital | Test water pH (critical!) |
| Timer | Mechanical or digital | Automate light schedule |
| Nice-to-Haves | ||
| Clip Fans | 6-inch (×2) | Air circulation, strengthens stems |
| Thermometer/Hygrometer | Digital with memory | Monitor temp and humidity |
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Germination (Days 1-7)
Germination is waking up your seed and getting it to sprout. The paper towel method is the most reliable for beginners.
Paper Towel Method
- 1Optional Soak: Place seeds in a glass of room-temperature water for 12-24 hours. Seeds that sink are viable.
- 2Paper Towel Setup: Wet paper towels until damp (not dripping). Place seeds between two layers. Put between two plates or in a partially open ziplock.
- 3Store: Keep in a warm (75-80°F), dark place. Check daily and keep towels moist.
- 4Plant: When the taproot is ¼" to ½" long (24-72 hours), plant with taproot pointing DOWN in pre-moistened soil, ½" deep.
Pro Tip: Humidity Dome
After planting, cover with a clear humidity dome (a cut plastic bottle works great). Remove once the seedling emerges and first true leaves appear.
Seedling Stage (Weeks 1-3)
The seedling stage is delicate. Your young plant is establishing its root system and first sets of leaves. Go easy on water and nutrients.
Light: 18/6
24-30" above canopy
Temp: 70-78°F
Consistent warmth
Humidity: 65-70%
Higher than later stages
Watering Seedlings
- Water in a small circle around the seedling (encourages roots to spread)
- Only water when top inch of soil is dry
- Use pH'd water (6.2-6.8 for soil)
- No nutrients for first 2 weeks if using quality soil
#1 Beginner Mistake: Overwatering
More seedlings die from overwatering than any other cause. When in doubt, wait another day. Droopy leaves with heavy, thick texture = overwatered. Droopy with thin, papery texture = underwatered.
When to Transplant
Transplant when roots are visible at drainage holes, or when the plant has 4-5 sets of true leaves. Move from your starter pot to a 3-gallon, then to final 5-gallon pot.
⚡ Autoflower Note: Skip Transplanting
Plant autoflowers directly in their final container (3-5 gallon pot). Autoflowers have a fixed timeline—any stress from transplanting costs you yield because they can't recover by extending their vegetative period.
Start your autoflower seed in the center of a pre-moistened 3-5 gallon fabric pot. Yes, the pot will seem huge for a tiny seedling, but the roots will grow into it without any transplant shock.
Vegetative Stage (Weeks 3-8)
The vegetative stage is when your plant grows big and bushy. This is when you'll see explosive growth and can train your plant for better yields.
Light: 18/6
18-24" above canopy
Temp: 70-85°F
Can handle more heat
Humidity: 40-60%
Lower than seedling
Watering in Veg
- Water when top 1-2" of soil is dry
- Water until 10-20% runoff from bottom
- In a 5-gallon pot, expect to water every 2-4 days
- Lift pot to judge weight—light pot = needs water
Nutrients in Veg
Start feeding nutrients at week 3, beginning at half strength. Cannabis in veg needs more nitrogen (N) for leaf growth. Follow your nutrient brand's schedule, but always start lighter than recommended.
| Week | Nutrient Strength | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Week 3 | 25-50% | Start light |
| Week 4-5 | 50-75% | Increase if plant looks healthy |
| Week 6-8 | 75-100% | Full strength if no burn |
Plant Training (LST)
Low Stress Training (LST) is the beginner-friendly way to increase yields. By bending and tying down branches, you expose more bud sites to direct light.
- 1. Once plant has 4-5 nodes, gently bend the main stem to the side
- 2. Tie it down to the pot edge using soft plant ties
- 3. As new growth reaches up, continue tying outward
- 4. Goal: Flat, even canopy with multiple tops
⚡ Growing Autoflowers: Key Differences
Autoflowers don't have a true "vegetative stage"—they start flowering automatically around weeks 3-4 regardless of light schedule. Here's how to adapt:
Light Schedule
Keep 18/6 or 20/4 throughout the entire grow—no need to switch to 12/12. More light hours = more energy = bigger yields.
Training
Stick to gentle LST only. Start early (around day 14-21) and be very gentle. Avoid topping or high-stress training—autos don't have time to recover.
Nutrients
Feed at 50-75% of recommended photoperiod strength. Autoflowers are sensitive to nutrient burn and their smaller root systems can't handle as much.
Timing
By week 3-4, you'll see pre-flowers appear (small white hairs). This is normal—your auto is transitioning to flower automatically. Start bloom nutrients when you see these signs.
Flowering Stage (Weeks 8-12+)
The flowering stage is when your plant produces buds. For photoperiod plants, this is triggered by changing the light schedule to 12/12 (12 hours on, 12 hours off).
⚡ Autoflower Note: No Light Change Needed
Autoflowers do NOT require a light schedule change. Keep them on 18/6 or 20/4 throughout the entire grow—they'll flower automatically around weeks 3-4.
More light hours means more photosynthesis and bigger yields. The "when to flip" advice below only applies to photoperiod plants.
When to Flip to Flower (Photoperiod Only)
Plants typically double in height during flowering ("the stretch"). In a 4-5 foot tall tent, flip when your plant is 12-18 inches tall to avoid running out of headroom.
Light: 12/12
12-18" above canopy
Temp: 65-80°F
Cooler brings out colors
Humidity: 40-50%
30-40% late flower
Critical: Complete Darkness (Photoperiod)
During the 12 hours of darkness, your tent must be COMPLETELY dark. Even small light leaks can stress your plant and cause it to produce seeds (hermaphrodite) or revert to veg. Check for LEDs, cracks, and light leaks.
Autoflowers: Less sensitive to light leaks since they don't rely on darkness to trigger flowering. Still good practice to minimize light stress, but not as critical.
Flowering Timeline
| Week | What to Expect |
|---|---|
| Weeks 1-2 | Stretch phase—rapid vertical growth. White pistils appear. |
| Weeks 3-4 | Buds begin forming at nodes. Trichomes appear. |
| Weeks 5-6 | Buds fatten significantly. Strong smell develops. |
| Weeks 7-8 | Buds dense. Pistils darken. Fan leaves yellow. |
| Weeks 8-10+ | Final ripening. Trichomes mature. Harvest window. |
The Flush
During the final 1-2 weeks, stop feeding nutrients and water with plain, pH'd water only. This flushes excess nutrients from the plant, resulting in smoother smoke. The fan leaves will yellow and fall off—this is normal and desired.
Harvesting
Knowing when to harvest is crucial. Harvest too early and you lose potency; too late and the effect becomes more sedative. Trichome color is your best indicator.
Check Trichomes
Use a jeweler's loupe (60x) or pocket microscope to examine the trichomes (the tiny mushroom-shaped crystals on your buds):
| Trichome Color | Effect | Harvest? |
|---|---|---|
| Clear | Not ready | ❌ Wait |
| Mostly Cloudy | Peak THC, energetic high | ✓ Yes |
| Cloudy + 20-30% Amber | Balanced high | ✓ Most popular |
| Mostly Amber | More sedative, couch-lock | ✓ For relaxation |
How to Harvest
- 1. Stop watering 1-2 days before (speeds drying)
- 2. Cut the plant at the base, or cut branch by branch
- 3. Remove large fan leaves (wet trim) - optional
- 4. Hang whole plant or branches upside down
Drying (1-2 Weeks)
Proper drying is critical for quality. Rushing this step is a common mistake that results in harsh, unpleasant smoke.
Ideal Conditions
- Temperature: 60-70°F (ideal: 65°F)
- Humidity: 55-65% (ideal: 60%)
- Light: Complete darkness
- Airflow: Gentle—no fans on buds
When It's Ready
- Small stems snap (not bend)
- Outside of buds feel dry
- Usually 7-14 days
- Longer = better quality
Common Drying Mistakes
- ❌ Drying too fast (brown, harsh smoke)
- ❌ Too much airflow (overdries outside, wet inside)
- ❌ Too humid (mold risk)
- ❌ Light exposure (degrades THC)
Curing (2+ Weeks)
Curing is what separates good weed from great weed. It's a slow process that dramatically improves flavor, smoothness, and potency.
How to Cure
- 1Jar Your Buds: Trim buds and place in mason jars, filling 75% full. Don't pack them tight.
- 2Store Properly: Keep jars in a cool (60-70°F), dark place.
- 3Burp the Jars:
- Days 1-7: Open jars 2-3× daily for 5-10 minutes
- Weeks 2-4: Open once daily for a few minutes
- After week 4: Open once weekly
- 4Monitor Humidity: Should be 58-65% inside jar. Use Boveda 62% packs if needed.
| Cure Duration | Result |
|---|---|
| 2 weeks | Minimum for good smoke |
| 4 weeks | Noticeably better |
| 6-8 weeks | Excellent quality |
| 2-6 months | Premium, ultra-smooth smoke |
Troubleshooting
Problems happen to everyone. Here are the most common issues and how to fix them.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Yellow lower leaves | Nitrogen deficiency | Increase nitrogen nutrients |
| Dark green, clawed leaves | Nitrogen toxicity | Reduce nutrients, flush |
| Brown spots | CalMag deficiency | Add CalMag supplement |
| Yellow between veins | pH lockout or Mg deficiency | Check pH, add CalMag |
| Burnt leaf tips | Nutrient burn | Reduce nutrient strength |
| Droopy leaves (heavy) | Overwatering | Let soil dry more |
| Droopy leaves (thin) | Underwatering | Water more frequently |
| Slow growth | Low temps, pH, or overwatering | Check environment, let soil dry |
Golden Rule: Check pH First
90% of nutrient problems are actually pH problems. Before adjusting anything, make sure your water/nutrient solution is pH'd to 6.2-6.8 for soil. This one habit will prevent most issues.
⚡ Autoflower Troubleshooting Note
Autoflowers are less forgiving of problems. Because they have a fixed timeline, any issue (overwatering, nutrient burn, pest damage) directly costs you yield—they can't extend veg to recover.
Prevention is key with autos: start light on nutrients, don't overwater, and monitor closely in the first few weeks. If you notice problems, address them immediately but gently. Sometimes the best approach is to just let the plant recover rather than making multiple adjustments.
Quick Reference Card
☀️ Photoperiod
TOTAL TIME: 14-20+ weeks
VEG LIGHT: 18 on / 6 off
FLOWER LIGHT: 12 on / 12 off
TRIGGERS FLOWER: Light change
YIELD: 3-16+ oz per plant
⚡ Autoflower
TOTAL TIME: 8-12 weeks
LIGHT: 18/6 or 20/4 (entire grow)
NO LIGHT CHANGE needed
TRIGGERS FLOWER: Age (~3-4 wks)
YIELD: 1-4 oz per plant
Universal Settings (Both Types)
WATER pH: 6.2-6.8 (soil)
VEG TEMP: 70-85°F
FLOWER TEMP: 65-80°F
VEG HUMIDITY: 40-60%
FLOWER HUMIDITY: 40-50%
DRY TEMP: 60-70°F
DRY HUMIDITY: 55-65%
HARVEST: Cloudy + 20-30% amber
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